Sunday, June 21, 2009

June 16, 2009 - Orleans Redeemed (Day 2)

The next day I got up early. I checked out of the hotel and left my bags in the baggage room of the hotel. First I went to “La Maison de Jeanne d’Arc” (Joan of Arc’s house)which is a very old roman style cross timber house. In side is a small museum dedicated to who else….Jeanne d’Arc. From there I went to the cathedral. I wanted to take more pictures, but absent-mindedly, I forot my SD card in my netbook. So, I was limited by the memory on my camera. I took a few pictures of the cathedral, then I went to the park behind the cathedral. Today was the first day of the Orleans Jazz Festival and everyday there are show at noon and at night. Since I was leaving that afternoon, I went to the noon show. It was fun, very jazzy. They even played some funny, quirky, avant-garde kind of pieces. I took some sound bites for you….but, later had to erase them because I had no more memory. After the concert, I went to the Office de Tourisme and the Musee des Beaux Arts (Museum of Fine Arts). The display of art was very eclectic. You would have a room or a wall full of Renaissance paintings, then right in the middle would be some random modern art piece. It was just a little disconcerting somehow, but cool at the same time.
After that, I rushed back to the hotel, grabbed my bags, and walked back to the train station to catch my train to Blois. Au revoir.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

June 14-15, 2009 - Orleans (Day 1)

I must say that when I first arrived in Orleans, I wasn't impressed. The area around the train station seemed dark and dismal and there wasn't a taxi to be found. I found a very nice chain hotel not far from the station and checked-in for 2 nights or so I thought. I went upstairs and took a nice cool bath in my pretty tub. Then after spending a good few minutes trying to figure out how to turn on the TV, I snuggled up in my nice, comfy bed and watched TV until I fell asleep.
The next morning, I slept until 9am, then decided to do a little work on my blo while I had internet access. At 12:15, I get a phone call..."Il est midi et quart et nous avons besoin de notre chambre." ("It's 12:15 and we need the room.") WHAT!?! But I asked for 2 nights. He said that was impossible because they were booked solid for tonight. I reiterated that I had requested 2 nights and that the woman who checked me in had said nothing about being "complet." He assured me that he would find me another hotel room, and indeed he did. The hotel was a chain and they had a room at a slightly discounted price down the road. SO, I had to quickly pack up my things - no time for another bath =0( - and walk a half a mile or so down the road. The new room was similar, but no bathtub - DARN!
That afternoon I explored the town a little. I tried to find a grocery store or a washeteria, but alas I found none. Since I arrived in France, my diet has consisted mostly of bread - bread for breakfast and some type of sandwich for lunch or dinner. I generally eat 2 meals a day. Anyway, my body is craving vegetables and fruits, but they are proving difficult to find. So instead, I bought a SANDWICH (imagine that) and ate at a cafe at La Place du Martroi (Martyr Square) across from the Jeanne d'Arc (Joan of Arc) statue. In 1429, Joan of Arc, dressed as a male soldier, went to Chinon to petition Charles VII for an army to fight the English in Orleans. They won and it was the turning point of the Hundred Year's War. Eventually, France won back all of the lands that had been occupied by England. For that reason Joan of Arc, though burned at the stake for heresy, is considered as a saint and a national heroine of France, and especially a heroine of Orleans.
During that first outing into Orleans, my first perception was that the people in Orleans were not as warm and welcoming as they had been in Chartres or Chateaudun. I said "Bonsoir" to a woman I passed in the street ( standard southern girl courtesy.) She replied "On se connait?" ("Do we know each other?) I said "Non?" And then she was like "No really, do we know each other?". I didn't realize that in Orleans, I have to know you to greet you. The warmest conversations I had on that first outing were with the two (Bob Marleyesque) African guys who were flirting with me at the cafe, and the dirty (both literally and figuratively) old man who asked me to marry him on the way back to the hotel. After I turned him down, he offered to give me a massage. Yeah - I THINK NOT!!!!!

Day 2 - to follow shortly....=0)

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Sunday, June 14th - Chateaudun (corrected - sorry for all the typos...oops! I can spell, I just can't type...lol)

At 2:45 I took the bus to Chateaudun. Chateaudun is a tiny little town... cute and welcoming, but tiny. It is definitely full of history. There was , of course, no baggage storage at the train station... so I had to walk almost 2 miles (45 min.) uphill (both ways?) to the chateau. When I got there, a very nice lady in the gift shop offered to hold my bags behing the counter. Needless to say, I was extremely grateful. I believe my exact words were, "Vous ne pouvez pas imaginer comment vous m'avez aide." (You cannot imagine how much you've helped me.) Although, my head was silently screaming YES, YES, YES, I would love to leave my bags here. The nice lady also took a picture of me in front of the castle.
The castle dates back to the middle ages. It has a small chapel, a beautiful indoor/outdoor winding staircase, a tower whose walls are 4 meters thick, a dungeon, an underground prison, and a garden filled with plants and herbs from the middle ages. In the middle ages, people believed in the 4 humours (or elements) and that to be physically well, there had to be a balance between the humours. When a person was unbalanced, foods and herbs were used to rebalance them. Likewise, in the kitchen, foods and herbs were used according to the 4 seasons to maintain a healthy balance.
After visiting the castle, I bought some books on the middle ages to use in my French III classes. Then I loaded myself back up and began the long trek back to the train station, I stopped at a bakery along the way and bought 2 bottles of water and a loaf of French bread, for lunch and dinner. I got back to the train station with about 20 minutes to spare before the bus to Orleans. The weather was beautiful all day and as I waited for my bus, I realized that I had actually gotten sunbuned. I guess I'll have to use some of of that sunscreen I bought especially for this trip. Upon arriving in Orleans, I quickly found a hotel room near the train station. It was a little more than I would like to pay, but it was late and it was close. I was exhausted from the days adventures and I took a long bath, watched a lttle TV, and SLEPT like a baby.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

June 14, 2009 - Chartres, Day 2



June 14, 2009 - Chartres to Chateaudun
The light show was incredible. Huge projectors cast moving murals onto over 20 buildings in Chartres. There are historic figures and events, dancers, poetry, modern art, religious art, etc. The art is constantly moving and the color constantly changing. “Le Petit Train” is like riding a bumpy roller coaster up and down the tiny cobbled streets of the city. After the show, I walked around the city some more. I tried to take pictures of the light show, but I’m not sure how they will turn out. Then I walked 1 1/2 miles back to the hostel, showered, and went to sleep sometime around 2am. Bonne nuit.
Today, I woke up at 7am, ate my free breakfast, and began my 2+ mile walk to the train station. The plan was to lock up my backpack in a baggage locker, the go to the mass at 9:15. Guess what…. no baggage lockers….lol. Soooo, I hailed a taxi to bring me and my backpack to the church since I had already walked for an hour. The mass had just started. It was nice, but I must admit that I was just a little disappointed. Admit it, when you here Gregorian mass, what do you expect… MONKS, right?... Me too. Alas, there were no monks, just a small choir of 10 or so townsfolk. The chanting was in French and Latin. I was able to remember enough Latin to follow along at least. It has been nearly 20 years since I took Latin in college. After the mass I was going to take theday tour on “le petit train” but the cute little old French tourist started lining up an hour before departure time. I decided I didn’t want to fight for a place on the train.
So, I went to a nearby café, had a nice lunch, and wrote some postcards. At 1pm I went back to the train station to catch a bus to Chateaudun then continue on to Orleans. Tell you about it later.

June 13, 2009 - Chartres, Day 1



June 13, 2009 - Paris to Chartres
This morning I woke up early, got dressed, and got all my things together. Then I went downstairs for my free breakfast at the hotel. Breakfast consists of croissants, French bread, ham, boiled eggs, cereal, milk, orange juice, coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. There’s also butter, jelly, and “La vache qui rit” cheese. I ate my breakfast, then made myself a ham and cheese sandwich and wrapped it up for lunch. I grabbed my bags, paid my bill, then went to the post office to mail back all of my bike stuff. It wasn’t cheap, but it was less expensive than I expected.
From the post office, I walked across the street to the Gare de l’Est train station and took metro #4 to the Gare Montparnasse train station. The train to Chartres was only 13 euros and took about an hour.
The backpack is definitely easier to travel with. Today I carried it from 10am-12:30 pm and 1:30-4:30. The hardest part was probably walking the mile and a half (some uphill) to the hostel. BUT all in all—it wasn’t too bad. I just think of it as exercise.
Upon arriving in Chartres, I bought a ticket to go to Chateaudun tomorrow afternoon. Then I walked a half mile or so to the Office de Tourisme. I have learned that the tourist bureau has a list of all of the hotels and hostels in town and their prices. They will even call ahead and make reservations for you. However, the hostel office was closed until 3pm, so I had to wear my backpack to the cathedral and follow the guided tour (in French, of course) still carrying the backpack.
The Chartres cathedral is huge and amazing. 172 stained glass windows, gothic architecture and carvings, flying buttresses, huge towers in different styles, and my favorite, a labyrinth laid into the floor with black marble. I wish I had arrived yesterday


Because on Fridays, they move all the chairs and you can actually walk the labyrinth. Oh well. Instead, tomorrow there is a Gregorian mass at 9:15. I have always loved Gregorian chanting, so I’m going to listen.
After the guided tour, I went back to the tourist office and they called the hostel for me. Then I walked the mile and a half to the hostel, claimed my bed, and locked up my bags. I connected to wi-fi, checked my email, called my folks, rested a few minutes, then began the walk back to town. To get back to the cathedral, you can either walk up some very steep streets, or climb about 150 steps. I chose the streets. (I had walked down the stairs earlier and knew what I was in for. I think the stairs might have been easier. I’ll try them tomorrow morning. After all that, I got back too late for the museum, and it will be closed tomorrow.
At the moment, I am sitting in a café, next to the cathedral, having an after dinner coffee, and listening to the bells of the cathedral and the organ music escaping from within.
It’s 9:30 now and the sun is just beginning to set behind the buildings. Blackbirds dance and play in the blue skies and the white feathering of clouds are changing their plumes to shades of pink and purple. The temperature has dropped from the 70’s to the 60’s. It is very beautiful and pleasant indeed. I have decided that I like Chartres very much. It is quaint and peaceful, which is a drastic change from the hurried, harried, crowded, cluttered atmosphere of Paris. I could live here.
I don’t know if I can explain the feeling of being in the presence, of buildings which are 500-1000 years old: the juxtaposition of the present and the past, and knowing that 500 years from now, long after I have become “food for worms”, someone will be in this same spot, admiring these same buildings.

At 10:30, there will be a light show where light murals will be projected on all of the historic buildings and monuments of Chartres. I am taking “Le Petit Train” to take the tour, since I will have already walked 5-6 miles (most with a backpack) at the end of the day. I’ll tell you how it went tomorrow.

Friday, June 12, 2009

GOOD THINGS IN PARIS!!!!

I did see some wonderful things in Paris AND I will return to Paris at the end of my trip to do some things I didn't have a chance to do yet.
Wednesday, I saw the St. Sulpice cathedrale. If you have seen the DaVinci code it's the church were the blond monk pounded a hole in the floor to get the gray Job box, then killed the nun. =0(
I did see the rose line going through the middle of the church and I took a picture of the cement plaque in the floor marking the rose line. I did not see the little gold circles though. It is a beautiful cathedral, typical of gothic architecture.
Then, I went to the Jardins du Luxembourg next to the Palais du Luxembourg. I walked around the gardens, rested for a little while, and took some pictures of the statues, and the little old men playing chess and boules in the park. Next door was the Musee du Luxembourg andthey were having a special exhibit of the art of Lippi and Renaissance art. I tried to take some pictures, but the guard "tsk"ed me and wagged his finger at me. Afterward, I walked through the Latin Quarter, a very happening place. I visited the cathedral of St. Severin and took more pictures, of course. Then almost by accident I ended up at the Cathedral of NOTRE DAME. I went in and they were having mass. The singing and organ music were so beautiful that I decided to sit down and attend the mass. Meanwhile, thousands of tourists were wandering around the cathedral watching and taking pictures. I must admit, I took some pictures, too. =0) I wanted to visit the crypts, but they were already closed for the night...maybe when I come back in August.
Last night, I walked around the neighborhood near my hotel. It is a very busy and popular area with lots of little shops, parks, cafes, bars, and restaurants. I stopped at a restaurant called Pizzeria Alberto and had a delicious pizza (la cremiere) with an alfredo type sauce and ham and mushrooms AND the best tiramisu I have ever tasted in my life. (I brought half of the pizza back to the hotel for a midnight snack...literally.) The bars and cafes across from my hotel are very happening. There is live music and the crowds are singing (badly) and screaming and banging drums and blowing whistles and racing motorcycles.(There are more motorcycles and scooters than there are carsin Paris.) They start around 10pm and go until the wee morning hours. They sound like thet're having a great time, but I'm on the 5th floor and I have to wear earplugs to sleep.
Speaking of sleep, it's after 12:30 am and I need to get some sleep, so I will be ready to travel tomorrow.
Bonne nuit tout le monde. Gros Bisous!!!!!

Fantasy vs. Reality/Success vs. Failure

Wednesday evening, after my last blog entry, it started to rain (and rain, and rain, and oh yeah rain.) It is very diificult to manoeuver a bicycle and an umbrella at the same time. I finally made it to the RER train which took me to the Gare du Nord, which was the closest stop to my hostel. I asked about paying to store my bike in baggage claim, but they said no. There were several shady characters around so I decided not to lock up my bike outside. I walked the bike in the rain several blocks to the Gare de l'Est and again asked about paying to leave my bike. Again they said no. Outside the train station, but inside the gates were about a hundred bikes chained up. It was well lit, and there were police around, so I decided to leave my bike there because it was too far to go in the rain to my hostel. I locked it up with my super thick and expensive new chain, then caught the metro to my hostel.
The next morning I check out of the hostel. I wasn't feeling well, probably from walking in the rain the night before... so, I decided to kind of take the day off and treat myself to a real hotel. I checked on my bike, it was perfectly fine. I wanted to stay at the hotel at the train station, but they were booked. So I went to the tourist bureau and they found me a hotel nearby... with a bathtub and a double bed. Ahhhhh!!!! =0)
To make a long story longer..... when I went to check on my bike this morning.... you guessed it.... it was GONE....STOLEN!!!! Au revoir, Monsieur Velo! =0(

You know, I had this FANTASY about biking around France this summer, then REALITY slapped me in the face.... several times in fact. And, I realized that the fantasy was not going to happen... at least not the way I had envisioned. I did a reality check,and what I realized was that this journey was not just about riding a bicycle around France. It was about seeing new places, experiencing new things, learning about the culture, history, art, people, etc. of France, AND practicing my French. The reality is that I don't need a bike to do any of those things.

So here we go with plan B. (Because I am nothing if not flexible.) I went to the Latin Quarter today and bought a backpack. Then I got together almost everything bike related to ship back to the states tomorrow. Tomorrow morning I will leave Paris and BACKPACK through France for the next 57 days. When I get to an area where I would really like to bike around the countryside, like the Loire Valley, I will rent a bike for the day. Then I can return it at the end of the day and not worry about someone stealing it or bringing it on the train. It will be more expensive to travel this way, BUT if I budget myself, I can still make it happen. The first stop on my backpaking adventure will be Chartres and its infamous cathedral.

THE MORAL OF THE STORY: The thieves may have SUCCEEDED in stealing my bicycle, BUT they have FAILED to ruin my journey. Au contraire, if anything, they have succeeded only in strengthening my resolve and determination to make this the best trip possible. LA GROSSE TOURNEE DE FRANCE will LIVE ON!!!!! =0)

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

June 10th - Wandering around Paris

Hi guys! I'm in an Italian restaurant near the St. Suplice cathedral (from the DaVinci code) and the Palais du Luxembourg. Ivisited the cathedrale and a Renaissance Art exhibition at the Musee du Luxembourg. I tried to take pictures in the museum, but the man guarding the exhibitionscoldedn me. I picked up my bike today. It cost 138 euros for the repairs and a new seat and chain. I actually rode my bike in Paris.... ALONE! That was an adventure especially when you don't know where you're going. I'll have to ride it again later to get to the train station. I'm hoping that riding will be more enjoyable outside of Paris. Either way, I am realizing that this voyage is going to be more difficult than I could have ever even have imagined. We'll see how it goes.

THE HOSTEL








June 10, 2009
THE HOSTEL
I am staying in a hostel here in Paris—l’Auberge de Jeunesse Jules Ferry. It’s a little small and antiquated, but cute in it’s own way. I am in a double room which I am sharing with a 22 year old French girl from Mulhouse, near Strasbourg. Her name is Emilie and she is here in Paris to go to 2 concerts—Social Distortion and UME@6. Today she is camping out at the concert hall to make sure she gets a spot up front at the concert. Crazy young people….lol. She is very cool and very funny. Last year she worked as a teacher’s assistant at an English high school in Suffolk, so her English is excellent. Together we speak Franglais—half English, half French. Her parents are from Martinique, but she was born in France.
Our room has bunk beds, a sink, 2 chairs, and a small table. It may not be pretty, but it’s comfortable enough, especially for 20 euros a night. The staircase is a small and spiral with murals painted on the walls. The restrooms are… INTERESTING….=0) Thereare 2 showers and 2 toilettes to share between 6-7 rooms on a flooor. There are both guys and girls sharing the restrooms. My room is on the 2e etage or 3rd floor. Downstairs is a little living room area and a kitchen/dining room where we eat breakfast.
Across the street is a park and there are lots of shops and cafes all around. It’s nice.

June 9, 2009 - Le Musee d'Orsay



June 9, 2009
Today I woke up @ 7am (even tough I didn’t go to bed until after 1 am). I ate breakfast downstairs in the hostel; it comes with the room. We had applesauce, bread (of course) with jelly and butter, orange juice, and your choice of coffee, hot chocolat, or hot tea. After breakfast I went back to the bike shop to see if my bike was still there. It was (kind of). Someone did try very hard to steal it. They had managed to get off one of the chains; but, in trying to take of the second chain, they did more daqmage to the handlebars and brakes, bent the front tire, ruined the locking mechanism on the chain, AND broke my cushy, comfy seat that I had special ordered for this trip. NOOOOO, NOT MY SEAT!!!! =0(
Anyway, the bike is in the shop. I can’t wait to see how much that will cost. We’ll see tomorrow.
After the bike shop, I went to Bon Marche to buy a towel. I forgot that in a hostel you have to bring your own towel. ( I had to more or less drip dry last night...lol.) I found the perfect towel… thin, absorbent, and fast drying for 11 euros.
While riding the metro this morning, I realized that the bike shop was only 2 metro stops from the Musee d’Orsay. Soooo, I went to the Musee d’Orsay, which is a mostly modern art museum here in Paris. I had to wait in line for a half an hour, but it was definitely worth it. I am very glad that I bought an umbrella on the way there because it did start to rain again. THew museum has 5 levels and each area is dedicated to a different style of art: realism, classicalism, romanticism, ingrism, fauvism, pointillism, other various –ism’s, and on level 5 (my favorite) impressionism. There were tons of paintings by Renoir, Monet, Manet, Degas, Pissarro, Morrisot, Gaugin, etc. It was incredibly awesome, I bought a book to bring back to show you all. All in all, I spent 3-4 hours in the museum. Then I went back to the hostel to rest a little because my feet hurt from all the walking.